Frida Giannini, Creative Director of Gucci, has indicated a move away from the brand’s traditional black attire in their newest collection, saying that she wanted ‘a new palette and clean lines’ from their most recent AW14 collection.With a more optimistic, youthful edge, we can clearly see that this has been achieved in the sugary sweet pastel shades and shorter A-Line skirts and dresses that was showcased earlier on today in Milan. With soft pastel hues we saw fluffy shearling coats, double breasted trench coats and adorable, high-waisted A-line skirts in an array of metallic and matte pastel shades. Contrasted against this were darker, more autumnal, shades of olive green and deep red, as well as the obvious appearance of snakeskin, in youthful shades of yellow and blue, printed on both silk blouses as well as knee high, patent leather boots. Despite feminine colours, youthful prints and soft, luxurious textures, this collection aims to represent the modern Gucci woman, albeit with a 60’s edge.
As a contrast to their AW13 show, which saw lots of powder pink hues, Topshop Unique’s most recent show had a more tomboy edge. Opening the show came all blue looks, with smart woolen coats casually hanging off the shoulders of models for a disheveled, tomboy charm, which was only highlighted by the occasional appearance of sports inspired puffa jackets. Whilst a feminine element could be seen through the light, soft materials, pastel pink was no more in this new collection, but instead a new pastel colour emerged in the form of lemon yellow. This pretty, bright shade added a youthful, playful edge to the collection, with silky blouses and fluffy yellow furs, but when mixed with tan and darker shades of yellow the look made for a classic, but playful, approach to dressing. And, of course the show didn’t come without major trends that have been spotted throughout fashion week, including knee high boots (in grey and burgundy) as well as patchwork fur, that was seen in sweaters, coats and vests. I loved the femininity in their AW13 show, but this collection has been really clever in showcasing what their youthful, edgy customer wants- a chance to dress in a subtle, but sexy way, without losing their tomboy charm.
At his most recent show Ralph Lauren lived up to expectations with a beautiful, soft and ultra feminine collection that showcased pretty, romantic hues of creams, greys, pinks and lilacs. We’ve seen a lot of masculine silhouettes during NYFW, but not at Ralph Lauren, where shapes were kept simple, soft and classic for all occasions. For evening wear the collection gave a lovely sense of old Hollywood glamour (think soft furs mixed with silk and heavily embellished dresses) whilst the more casual side of the show gave us cosy knits, slouchy silk trousers and soft capes (most of which styled head to toe in one soft hue). It is also interesting the contrasting footwear that was on the runway-we saw converse style sneakers, pointed court shoes and thigh high grey suede boots, all showing how much versatility the brand still has whilst still remaining classic and feminine!
Inspired by the illustrated pop up books of Benjamin Lacombe, the designers at Alice + Olivia created a collection that represented ‘elegance, fragility and melancholy’ that was appropriately presented against a gothic fairytale backdrop. Speaking of the collection the designer (Bendet) said that it had ‘dark, sexy ties’ to the Victorian era, and this was clear to see across the whole collection, if not with a modern twist.
Through rich textures and Victorian-esque prints, the collection represents a feminine, but powerful, woman. The collection puts a sexual spin on traditional Victorian dress-knee high leather boots, sheer lace, luxurious looking black embellished mini dresses and leather corsets- whilst the baroque prints keep to the Victorian inspiration from which the collection stems from. The most dramatic piece comes in the form of a gorgeous, floor length red baroque print coat, that again becomes luxuriously modern when mixed with blue denim.
This collection holds one of my favourite inspirations- who doesn’t love a dark, gothic fairytale? The red lips, black choker detail, the opulent Victorian prints and enchanting backdrop wins me over every time!
It is unlike Altuzarra to create such a vibrant, colourful collection, but during his show at NYFW yesterday the designer contrasted bright pops of cobalt blue, fuschia pink and orange against his usual, more classic shades, of black, grey, white and cream. The double faced cashmere coats were stand out pieces, with contrasting shades of navy and cobalt blue, as well as the brightly coloured patchwork fur coat, which added a whole new youthful edge to the, usually more formal, collection. Altuzarra usually gives us sophisticated, but sexy, runway looks, which is why it came as a refreshing surprise to see the soft fringe detailing that adorned many of his dresses, skirts and tops in various colourful combinations. As the designer’s most colourful collection to date, it is questionable why he hasn’t been more experimental until now, but it is for certain that his more colourful hues are bound to attract a more youthful customer.
Kate Spade never disappoints when it comes to creating bold, youthful collections, and their AW collection, which was showcased during the second day of NYFW, was of no exception. This time the story behind the collection comes from the creative director’s recent trips to both Shanghai and Tokyo, which is clearly demonstrated by the designer’s use of obi bows, silky pajama pants and, of course, that ‘Hello Tokyo’ clutch bag. In this collection, rich colours are reminiscent of the vibrant South East Asian culture, especially when they are mixed with lots of textures, quirky accessories (that Chinese take out handbag) and bold prints (think bright florals and leopard spots). As usual, the Kate Spade New York collection has provided everything it promises to it’s loyal fashion followers; its playful, its bold and brings a youthful glow to the otherwise dull AW months. And what does the creative director have to say about the more subdued colours in the collection? ‘Navy is the new black’ (for a more classy Kate Spade look) and ‘Pale pink is the new neutral’ (For a softer, feminine edge contrasted against those brilliant vibrant hues).
Known for his gorgeous red carpet gowns, Tadashi Shoji definitely didn’t disappoint during his New York show yesterday as he presented a whole host of beautiful, flattering dresses. It was a romantic affair, with pretty lace and light chiffon (not forgetting a few regal looking capes and Victorian-esque high collars), but what really stood out was the designers symbolic nod towards ‘intricate tile work’ that was especially represented in his gorgeous lace numbers. The collection was a beautiful mix of bold colour, fresh white, as well as softer hues, which embodied the feminine, romantic charm of his entire collection. Now we’ve just got to sit and wait for his dresses to hit the red carpet ..