Day Time Exploring
Dressing up for Dinner Time
After we saw it once at Gail Sorronda, The Little Mermaid continues to inspire the fashion world, and this time we have seen it for Menswear SS15 by Bobby Abley at MAN. This time around we see the likes of Ursula, Sebastian and Ariel printed on Tees and Sweatshirts, and even a cheeky appearance from Ursula’s pet eels- Flotsam and Jetsam!
As a contrast to their AW13 show, which saw lots of powder pink hues, Topshop Unique’s most recent show had a more tomboy edge. Opening the show came all blue looks, with smart woolen coats casually hanging off the shoulders of models for a disheveled, tomboy charm, which was only highlighted by the occasional appearance of sports inspired puffa jackets. Whilst a feminine element could be seen through the light, soft materials, pastel pink was no more in this new collection, but instead a new pastel colour emerged in the form of lemon yellow. This pretty, bright shade added a youthful, playful edge to the collection, with silky blouses and fluffy yellow furs, but when mixed with tan and darker shades of yellow the look made for a classic, but playful, approach to dressing. And, of course the show didn’t come without major trends that have been spotted throughout fashion week, including knee high boots (in grey and burgundy) as well as patchwork fur, that was seen in sweaters, coats and vests. I loved the femininity in their AW13 show, but this collection has been really clever in showcasing what their youthful, edgy customer wants- a chance to dress in a subtle, but sexy way, without losing their tomboy charm.
It seems a mix of traditional and modern prints was the inspiration behind Preen’s most recent show in London this week. We saw Moroccan tiles digitally printed onto coats, dresses and skirts in either bright orange hues or in charcoal grey, but the modern twist came in the form of Darth Vader being printed on top of these traditional Moroccan tiles. Despite how odd this sounds, it actually seems to make sense- we’ve seen sweatshirts with all kinds of motifs and logos, and Preen have obviously taken this concept a step further by printing a sci-fi inspired logo on light, airy materials.
As if Darth Vader didn’t give enough of an edge already, there was a mix of both feminine and masculine elements. Inspired by Annie Hall, there were tailored suits and faint pinstripes, giving an androgynous feel to the collection, but this was softened by the feminine shapes of the skirts, dresses and blouses. Despite the use of black and white in the more tailored parts of the collection, the star of the show has to be the use of fiery hues in creating bold cashmere coats, fluffy oversized sweatshirts, a gorgeous velvet dress and, of course, the Moroccan tile print. The great part about this whole collection is that it is so wearable- we could buy a lot of it now and wear it now- especially those fur trimmed, shiny khaki parka coats and black knee high boots (a huge trend across fashion week so far).
At Victoria’s Beckham’s most recent NYFW show we saw the designer had finally moved away from her signature dresses, instead showing a more masculine collection that is now being compared to the likes of Celine. Fluid lines are a sharp contrast to her previous ‘body-con’ structures, and whilst masculine shapes are present in the form of over-sized cashmere coats, tailored silk trousers and gold chain detailing, the designer softened her collection by adding dramatic ruffles on fitted chiffon blouses and delicate pleating on the backs of coats and the hemlines of both dresses and skirts. The monochromatic theme only added to the simplicity of the collection, although a rare abstract print (another surprise element from Victoria) and a few pops of red brightened the designs, somewhat.
It is unlike Altuzarra to create such a vibrant, colourful collection, but during his show at NYFW yesterday the designer contrasted bright pops of cobalt blue, fuschia pink and orange against his usual, more classic shades, of black, grey, white and cream. The double faced cashmere coats were stand out pieces, with contrasting shades of navy and cobalt blue, as well as the brightly coloured patchwork fur coat, which added a whole new youthful edge to the, usually more formal, collection. Altuzarra usually gives us sophisticated, but sexy, runway looks, which is why it came as a refreshing surprise to see the soft fringe detailing that adorned many of his dresses, skirts and tops in various colourful combinations. As the designer’s most colourful collection to date, it is questionable why he hasn’t been more experimental until now, but it is for certain that his more colourful hues are bound to attract a more youthful customer.
It was only last year that designer Calla Haynes first showed her collection during NYFW, and yesterday the designer was back again to show off yet another vibrant collection. Haynes is known for her strong print designs, which is why it came as no surprise to see a collection full of bold clashing prints, a nod towards ‘relaxed luxury’, as the designer herself describes her collection. The designer has managed to create a modern twist on ‘easy to wear’ fashion, by mixing quirky prints with more classic ones, like plaid and bright florals, which has led to a youthful, yet luxurious, collection.
Kate Spade never disappoints when it comes to creating bold, youthful collections, and their AW collection, which was showcased during the second day of NYFW, was of no exception. This time the story behind the collection comes from the creative director’s recent trips to both Shanghai and Tokyo, which is clearly demonstrated by the designer’s use of obi bows, silky pajama pants and, of course, that ‘Hello Tokyo’ clutch bag. In this collection, rich colours are reminiscent of the vibrant South East Asian culture, especially when they are mixed with lots of textures, quirky accessories (that Chinese take out handbag) and bold prints (think bright florals and leopard spots). As usual, the Kate Spade New York collection has provided everything it promises to it’s loyal fashion followers; its playful, its bold and brings a youthful glow to the otherwise dull AW months. And what does the creative director have to say about the more subdued colours in the collection? ‘Navy is the new black’ (for a more classy Kate Spade look) and ‘Pale pink is the new neutral’ (For a softer, feminine edge contrasted against those brilliant vibrant hues).
Okay, so we all look forward to the runway shows, but how will the heavy snow that has hit New York effect the street style of the fashion elite across the next few days? Below are a few predictions of what we can expect from street style as it prepares to fight off the bitter NY cold.
Lots of layering
The infamous ‘street style’ at NY fashion week will have to adapt to the colder weather, but don’t expect them to ‘layer up’ in a conventional way. Think oversized woolen coats on top of another coat, a furry vest acting as a unique take on a scarf underneath a blazer or even the doubling up of scarves.
I predict lots of furry Fendi mittens, as well as fur vests, coats, hats.. anything warm and furry to fight off the bitter NY cold and look glamorous whilst doing it.
Making a huge comeback for a great ‘I just threw this on’ look, these will definitely be on show throughout fashion week, especially those with friends at Kenzo who bag early access to their fish inspired sweatshirts, which aren’t actually available to purchase until the end of February.
Over-sized Woolen Coats
It seems obvious, I know, but despite that pink Celine coat being huge, I actually expect a rainbow oversized woolen coats,too, because wearing that pink coat would be just too obvious, wouldn’t it?
Maybe this is a British thing, but it wouldn’t surprise me if somebody turned up in a pair of these, especially after the brand has been given it’s own runway slot later on in the month for London Fashion Week. It is snowing, surely somebody will dress practically for the event?
New Season Loubs
For those NY fashion forward ladies who refuse to let the snow come between them and looking good in a pair of glossy new Louboutins. We’re likely to see the updated Pigalle, Princess or even the Louis sneaker on show over the next few days (just think glitter, pastels and vibrant hues).